Hollywood stars started flocking to Palm Springs in the 1930s for its privacy and relaxation, and the desert resort town has been a fashionable weekend getaway for Angelenos ever since. Known for its midcentury modern architecture, boutique hotels and strong LGBTQ+ community, Greater Palm Springs encompasses nine cities, each offering distinct character — from serene desert beauty in Indian Wells to the Hispanic heritage of the Coachella Valley. This snowbird destination triples in size during the winter months, making the holidays an especially fun time to visit — with its starlit streets, festive events and excellent shopping along Palm Canyon Drive.
Photography provided by Parker Palm Springs
Stay
This independent hotel designed by Jonathan Adler originally opened in 1959 as California’s first Holiday Inn and was actor Gene Autry’s private home for several decades. Today, it’s an Alice in Wonderland–esque hedge maze of flowers, fountains and cheeky phallic sculptures situated just a few minutes from downtown Palm Springs. The midcentury modern maximalist aesthetic is eccentric but fun, with a hodgepodge of Bvlgari, Aesop and Le Labo bath amenities and black-and-white vintage photos accented with bright geometric pops of color.
The 13-acre estate has three pools (including one that’s adults-only) along with red clay tennis courts, two new padel courts and a manicured lawn for croquet. For brunch at Norma’s, the “zillion-dollar” lobster frittata topped with an ounce (or 10!) of Tsar Nicoulai osetra caviar is an indulgent way to start the day. At dinner, the dimly lit Mister Parker’s has a moody ambiance with a killer crab cake and a delightful, subtly sweet tiramisu.
Photography provided by The Spa at Séc-he
Do
Long before European settlers arrived in Coachella Valley, Séc-he provided water for drinking, bathing, irrigation and spiritual ceremonies, and its underground passage served as a link between the physical and spiritual world. The Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians now share their sacred hot springs with the public at this splendid day spa, featuring 22 private mineral baths, in downtown Palm Springs adjacent to the Agua Caliente Cultural Museum.
Unique, cutting-edge spa treatments include an herbal poultice massage (option for either cupping or sound bowl) on a crushed quartz treatment bed that feels like laying on warm desert sand that contours to the curves of your body. Sensory deprivation float tanks, cryotherapy and IV therapy are available as well. A day pass grants access to amenities like aromatherapy showers, halotherapy salt caves, zero-gravity loungers with vibro-acoustic sound therapy, and outdoor pools with cabana and daybed rentals.
Photography provided by Workshop
Dine
Towering concrete interiors create an austere Brutalist backdrop to parade the vibrant works of art found in one of the most ambitious kitchens in town. Previously a 1930s theater and more recently a furniture showroom, the building now houses an alluring eatery boasting one of the best dining experiences in the area. Here, diners will find a long, center stage communal table that seats 24, intimate concrete booths on either side and a bustling 60-seat courtyard for alfresco dining.
Chef/co-owner Michael Beckman picks dates, nasturtium and marigolds from his home garden in Rancho Mirage to make plant-forward dishes like roasted cone head cabbage with tahini and chili crisp shine. Warm housemade sourdough bread is an off-menu must for its satisfyingly crunchy crust and an ever-changing assortment of cultured butter in unique flavors like mandarin kosho (a fermented Japanese condiment). In the winter, reserve Champagne flights are available, with two-ounce pours of excellent grower varieties like Chavost and Gimonnet Gonet.
Photography provided by DSRT Surf
Do
Riding waves in the desert might sound far-fetched, but DSRT Surf brings the ocean to Palm Desert with predictably perfect conditions year-round. The largest surf lagoon in the country, the 5.5-acre surfing destination opened this summer and delivers up to 1,000 waves per hour for up to 70 surfers. Wavegarden’s patented technology circulates currents and delivers simultaneous waves that mimic a natural ocean environment. The surf lover’s haven is sandwiched between two of Desert Willow’s golf courses and surrounded by rugged mountains.
Ocean conditions are often difficult to predict, but at DSRT Surf, the size, shape, power and frequency of the artificial waves can be adjusted with just the push of a button. Conditions can instantly be transformed from small and mellow waves for beginners to powerful barreling white caps upward of six feet for advanced and professional surfers.
Photography provided by The Bungalow
Shop
Located in the Uptown Design District, the hottest new boutique in town offers men’s and women’s wear and chic home decor in a restored 1930s bungalow. Founder Neal Sperling has exquisite taste, ranging from decorative pillows by Denmark’s Christina Lundsteen to leather goods from Il Bisonte Florence. A phenomenal footwear selection includes sneakers from Japan, clogs made in Copenhagen, espadrilles from Spain, and CALLA slippers from Paris crafted with upcycled vintage Moroccan rugs. Hand-painted silk tunics from India are head-turning statement pieces, while metallic Maria La Rosa socks are the kind of accessory that sparks joy.
“We spent a lot of time finding makers doing something really exciting,” Sperling says. “These aren’t brands you’ll find in department stores.” He also designs his own clothing line, which is produced in New York City using Japanese fabrics. He used to sell to legendary department stores Barneys New York and Colette in Paris, but today, his designs are exclusively found at the Bungalow.
Photography provided by Sensei Porcupine Creek
Stay
In 1977, Larry Ellison, cofounder of software giant Oracle, transformed his private Rancho Mirage estate into an adults-only wellness retreat, with 22 accommodations and thoughtful programming around themes of movement, nourishment and rest. Guides use biomarkers, like a VO2 max test, to measure fitness and design personalized health recommendations for each guest, like a thermal body mapping massage to alleviate muscular pain and asymmetries.
Lushly landscaped grounds bursting with palm trees, bougainvillea and succulents create a tropical oasis surrounded by dusty desert mountains. Guests can choose from estate rooms, casitas or multi-bedroom villas, which come with complimentary golf carts to zip around the property. In the retreat’s living room, art lovers can admire abstract artworks from Ellison’s personal collection — think geometric shell mosaics and shimmering gold paper sculptures. Chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s only private restaurant is open all day, serving signature dishes like miso black cod and Japanese A5 wagyu.
