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Mexico’s capital city has established itself as a North American cultural and culinary capital in recent years, with shops, galleries and restaurants popping up on the regular. It might be among the top 10 most populated places on the planet, but it certainly doesn’t feel that way when you’re tucked into trending neighborhoods like hip Roma, chic Condesa and posh Polanco. No matter where you wander in this highly walkable destination, there’s something new and novel to catch your attention — which is why we’ll be making regular return visits. Direct flights are available from most major U.S. markets, plus CDMX (short for Ciudad de México) is a great jumping-off point to explore the rest of the country beyond its beaches.


Artful Living | Artful Living City Guide: Mexico City

Photography provided by the St. Regis Mexico City

Stay

The St. Regis Mexico City

Located along main thoroughfare Paseo de la Reforma overlooking the famed Diana the Huntress fountain, the St. Regis sits right in the heart of the city. The César Pelli­–designed modern, mirrored building is one of the tallest in town and stands out against the skyline. Once inside the 31-story structure, you’re enveloped in pure opulence, from the elegant environs to the attentive service to the lavish amenities. The property’s 189 guest rooms include 35 sumptuous suites, all with butlers ready around the clock to cater to your every whim. Last year, eight garden terrace suites were unveiled, each with indoor/outdoor accommodations replete with private plunge pools and hot tubs. All guests can take a dip in the indoor pool (a CDMX rarity) up on the 15th floor, also home to the spa and fitness center. The dining is also top-notch here, from go-to Diana Restaurant to Mexican/Japanese fusion eatery Animal to the utterly cool King Cole Bar.


Artful Living | Artful Living City Guide: Mexico City

Photography provided by Botánico

Dine

Botánico

From the streetside, it would be easy to pass by this Condesa art deco building without giving it much thought. But hidden behind that humble façade is a secret garden (hence the name) that enchants from the second you step inside. Colossal cacti tower above you, while colorful koi swim in a petite pond nearby. And that’s all before the meal starts. Longtime collaborating chefs Alejandra Navarro Macías and Ernesto Hernández helm the eatery’s open kitchen, cooking up modern bistro fare using the freshest of ingredients. Favorite dishes from a recent visit include the unassuming ensalada verde (green salad), the tuna carpaccio, the ribeye burger and the crème brûlée with kalamata olives (trust us on this one). Dining at Botánico is a multisensorial experience to be sure, and it’s no wonder it’s so tough to nab a reservation here.


Artful Living | Artful Living City Guide: Mexico City

Photography provided by Tetetlàn

Do

Tetetlán

Is it a restaurant? A library? A boutique? An art gallery? A wellness center? An architectural marvel? Yes to all of the above. In so many ways, Tetetlán embodies the creative essence of CDMX. Situated on the outskirts of the city in Jardines del Pedregal, it’s a day-trip destination well worth the drive. The space itself — designed by acclaimed Mexican architect Luis Barragán — is an awe-inspiring amalgamation of volcanic stone walls, glass floors and pink rafters (Barragán’s signature hue), all drenched in natural light that pours in from above. You can while away the hours noshing on sustainable, seasonal bites (weekend breakfast is a must), getting lost in the pages of a novel, doing sun salutations in a yoga class or listening to a pick from the vast sound library. The site is actually the former stables to the adjacent Casa Pedregal, where Tetetlán founder and art aficionado César Cervantes currently resides.


Artful Living | Artful Living City Guide: Mexico City

Photography provided by IKAL

Shop

IKAL

Even in bustling Polanco, IKAL’s flagship stands out among the bunch. Grabbing your attention first is the matrix of white steel cubes framing an ever-changing window display that’s a work of art in its own right — like a chic, contemporary take on the department-store versions of yore. From there, you can’t resist the siren song beckoning you inside to browse the concept store’s carefully curated collection of fashion, accessories, homewares and other one-of-a-kind objets d’art. Most are designed by Mexican and Latin American artisans and indie brands — think Cubel, Carlota and Olmos & Flores — helping fuel the creative ecosystem here. But IKAL offers more than just shopping. It’s also a hot spot for design inspiration, FOMO-inducing pop-ups and all-around good vibes. Over in the Juárez neighborhood, IKAL Men features a stylish selection of masculine-geared goods. The guiding principle behind it all? “No object is here by chance.”


Artful Living | Artful Living City Guide: Mexico City

Photography provided by Voraz

Dine

Voraz

There’s a reason this Roma Sur restaurant was one of Mexico City’s most lauded openings last year, earning honors from Michelin and Condé Nast Traveler. The gastro-cantina is effortlessly cool in every way, from its locale in a former auto body shop to its evolving, imaginative menu to its chef/musician proprietor, Emiliano Padilla. But don’t let his seemingly casual cuisine fool you; he learned from the best at NOMA in Denmark, Fäviken in Sweden, and RyuGin in Japan. Menu highlights include the tuna tostada, the chicken pibil, the black angus steak taco paired with bone marrow, and the best pecan pie you’ve ever tasted. How does Padilla describe Voraz? “It’s a reflection of a modern, loud, cosmopolitan, post-Internet and spicy Mexico City.” How do we describe it? One of the best dinner parties in town — where everyone has a seat at the table.


Artful Living | Artful Living City Guide: Mexico City

Photography by Bob Schalkwijk

Do

Museo Frida Kahlo

A CDMX stay is incomplete without a visit to the Frida Kahlo Museum in the colorful, quaint art and history hub of Coyoacán. So named for its vibrant exterior, Casa Azul (Blue House) — the legendary Mexican artist’s longtime home, from her birth to her death in 1954 at the age of 47 — was transformed into this shrine of sorts four years after her passing. Art and artifacts paint a fuller picture of the everyday existence behind the famous face, including Kahlo’s chronic pain and physical limitations that hugely influenced her life and work. While some areas are quite exhibition-driven, others feel very intimate, prompting your mind to run wild imagining how she and husband Diego Rivera spent their time here. Earlier this fall, her living relatives opened Museo Casa Kahlo (also known as Casa Roja for its rouge hue) next door to deepen the public’s understanding of the artist from a family perspective. Word to the wise: Advance tickets are a must. 

Read this article as it appears in the magazine.

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