We love wine — in moderation, of course — for its sense of discovery and tradition, pleasure and celebration. In that regard, it’s much like dressing. Both can be obsessive and costly habits, but only one gives you a hangover. Our favorite wines and our favorite clothes both reflect the place where they’re made, be it a bottle from Bordeaux, France, or a garment purchased on London’s Savile Row. And they’re often shared with others — if you’re opening some Champagne or wearing a tuxedo, you’re likely doing it among friends in a good mood (though by all means, get dressed up on your own and pour something good). With that in mind, let’s consider where to raise a glass — a wine bar, naturally — along with what to drink and what to wear.
Illustration by Hilbrand Bos
White Burgundy in Paris
Chardonnay, the primary grape used in Burgundy wines, when handled correctly, is not overly oaky (which can raise tempers around the table). In Paris, you’ll find lovely Burgundies with enough acidity to balance any richness — think Chablis, Pouilly-Fuissé or a splendid Meursault.
What to wear: Select something with tailoring, but not overly fussy; this is an easy way to feel dressy while still being comfortable enough to put your feet up. A cashmere sport coat over a turtleneck feels right. One good cashmere coat goes a long way (and is worth the investment) and goes perfectly with a glass of white Burgundy and some sole meunière. Just thinking about it makes me want to be in the City of Light.
Pinot Noir in Napa, California
Oh pinot noir — graceful, refined and such a lovely color. It’s wine I want to drink every evening. If you make the pilgrimage to Northern California, you can gaze across the vineyards and feel very lucky indeed. Every time I visit, I’m always surprised by how beautiful it is; I should be prepared by now.
What to wear: Of California’s many charms, formality is not one of them. Let’s leave the tailoring behind and get a chore coat — perhaps in corduroy, washed cotton or even suede — in an inviting earth tone (you’re in the countryside, after all). Pair that with a good blue chambray shirt and some desert boots. Here, you’re in the mood to enjoy those cult wines your friends back home can only dream about.
Orange Wine in New York
Now there’s plenty of good wine in New York — from the Finger Lakes or out on the North Fork of Long Island. But let’s look for something more daring; New Yorkers aren’t afraid of a strong personality. If you arrive at a bar early in the evening, what about a glass of orange wine? Don’t be afraid. Skin contact varieties such as this, often from Slovenia or Georgia, can be more tannic with less of the clean fruit found in white wines. Of course, orange wine, like all natural wine, isn’t universally great. No category is. But if a bar or restaurant looks promising, go ahead and try something new and refreshing.
What to wear: For the fearless, a sport coat with wide lapels (which announce your intentions), a Western shirt, jeans and Chelsea boots. You’re a tailored man, you’re a denim man, you’re open to new equations that come your way. Orange wine doesn’t have to be for life; it’s just a glass. Give it a shot.
Barolo in Milan
Barolo is robust in its youth and mellows with age; I’m sure there’s a parallel to certain writers there, but that’s a topic for another column. Made in the Italian region of Piedmont from the nebbiolo grape, Barolo is a deep ruby color and seriously tannic. Ideally you wait 10 years before a bottle comes into its own, and it can be challenging (and costly) to find what you’re looking for. In Milan, however, less than two hours from Piedmont, you’re in luck. A wine bar is good, but I would actually head to lunch at Antica Trattoria della Pesa for an order of osso bucco and a bottle of Barolo.
What to wear: Because Milan is the mecca of Northern Italian sartorialism and home to legendary tailor Ferdinando Caraceni, defined by its tasteful conservatism, I would wear a gray flannel suit, a proper dress shirt with a long collar (we’re still expressing ourselves here) and a knitted tie. After a tiramisu and an aged grappa, make sure there are no appointments for the rest of the day.
Riesling in Strasbourg, France
One of the purest wines you’ll find, riesling possesses a sweet clarity that I adore. Some people have bad memories of a sugary riesling from their youth. This is understandable, as riesling comes in many different forms with long, confusing German names. Try a trocken (which is dry, or the least sweet) or feinherb (off-dry, slightly more sweet), both of which have a wonderful acidity that balances the flavor of the finish.
What to wear: This is the wine of springtime, the wine of optimism. To imbibe a riesling, go with a linen sport coat, a Lacoste shirt, a good pair of chinos, boat shoes and a sense of looking forward to warmer weather.
A Minnesotan turned New Yorker, David Coggins is the author of the New York Times bestseller Men and Style and writes a column for Artful Living.
