Photography provided by Rubra by Chef Daniela-Soto Innes
Admittedly, I don’t thrive on beach vacations. Having a fair complexion (think swim shirt territory) isn’t conducive to hours of soaking up the sun, despite my love of the ocean and my religious sunblock application. But like any child of the nineties who grew up on the Spice Girls’ music, girl power is ingrained in my DNA. So when the opportunity to step into the woman-led epicurean universe of one of the world’s best chefs presented itself, I found myself on a plane zipping toward Mexico’s Pacific Coast for a stay at W Punta de Mita with more SPF than one carry-on should hold.
The woman behind this vision is Mexico City–born Daniela Soto-Innes, who burst onto the scene as a culinary phenom in 2014. At just 25 years old, she earned the prestigious James Beard Rising Star Chef Award in 2016 and, just three years later, became the youngest chef to win the World’s Best Female Chef award from the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.
After her departure from New York City hot spot Cosme at the height of its success, Soto-Innes surprised the food world by trading fast-paced metropolitan glamour for a slow-grown deeply personal vision. At Rubra, she plants new roots — an entire farm, actually — in her homeland, celebrating the bounty of Mexico through a garden-to-table approach. Her debut restaurant also emphasizes elevating female talent in an overwhelmingly male-dominated industry, echoing the legacy of the matriarchs that historically contributed to creating and upholding Mexican cuisine as a world powerhouse.
And where better to create this epicurean Eden than at W Punta de Mita? Perched along the coveted Riviera Nayarit coastline less than an hour from Puerto Vallarta, the resort has perfected the art of beachside bliss, pairing laid-back surf culture with ultraluxe accommodations.
Lush greenery artfully encompasses the property’s 126 rooms and 20 beachfront suites, opening up to the pristine sands ideal for sunbathers and surfers alike. With a welcome margarita in hand, I follow the hotel’s signature technicolor-tiled mosaic walkway — a nod to the artistry of the Indigenous Huichol peoples — deeper into paradise. Along the way, I couldn’t help but muse that if I were creating the restaurant of my dreams, I’d want it to be here, too.
The Rubra experience begins in the two-acre organic farm, just a short walk from the main lobby. Stepping into the tropical oasis, I nibble on a freshly plucked herb offered by a caretaker as she guides me through rows of ingredients, pointing out everything from corn to chiles to hoja santa (Mexican pepperleaf). A golden hour tequila tasting at La Palapa, the Casa Dragones open-air terrazzo tasting bar overlooking the garden, underscores this magical peek behind the curtain. The space hums with life around us, quietly celebrating the traditions of milpa (the Mesoamerican agriculture system) in action.
Rubra’s entrance acts as a portal, transforming the buzz of anticipation (and a little tequila) into a contented exhale. A rosy hue softens the verging brutalist slabs of uniform concrete that stretch upward to envelop the cavernous yet cozy dining room designed by Mexican architect Ignacio Urquiza. The effect is grounding and quietly commanding — a poetic ode to feminine strength and the matriarchs of Mexican culture. The details start jumping out before I make it to the table. Custom-made chairs that resemble a whale’s tale, a wall of artisan stoneware, verdant canopies reaching for the enramadas (wooden lattices) above create intimate moments that paint the vibrant picture of Soto-Innes’ world.
The nearly all-female team brings the dining experience to life. Sommelier Andrea Hernandez guides the beverage journey, and Las Chikis — the sister duo who cooked alongside Soto-Innes at Cosme — work their magic in the open kitchen. Thinly cut scallops shine in tangy citrus flavors of lemon verbena and nopales (prickly pear cactus). Lamb barbacoa served with passionfruit, a selection of herbs and salsas, and fresh tortillas embraces a more playful approach, encouraging guests to experiment. Creativity peaks with the banana flower escabeche (a technique that involves marinating the blossoms in a salt solution), which transforms an overlooked ingredient into a signature briny delicacy.
The seafood-forward menu embodies what Soto-Innes dubs “tropical cooking,” an ever-changing approach that highlights seasonal garden-grown ingredients. It’s a beautiful homage to Huichol and Mexican cultures, bringing the land to life on the plate. As I revel in her food and vision, Soto-Innes is across the country at the MexBest Awards accepting the award for Best New Restaurant in Mexico. I unknowingly share in the celebration, quietly applauding a soursop mille-feuille with cacao and cajeta (goat’s milk caramel) so good that it eclipses any thoughts of the fresh sunburn prickling my skin. Rubra embodies connection, creativity and warmth in a way only a woman could dream up. While the food is a stunning whirl of flavor and balance, it’s the deeply personal spirit of the experience that sparks magic into this place. And to me, that’s girl power.
