The ethos of the West is inherently wild, rugged and rough around the edges. We tend to idealize this way of life, but I think we can all agree that pastoral and posh don’t often go hand-in-hand. So does rustic luxury actually exist? At Paws Up Montana it does.
Photography provided by Paws Up/Green O
I’ll admit that even I — a hardcore horse girl who has relished equine-centric experiences both average and extravagant — had my doubts. But from the second we drove onto the unparalleled property, I could tell that this place was something special. Situated on 37,000 acres just outside Missoula, the resort just celebrated its 20th anniversary, and it’s more spectacular than ever.
At every turn, Paws Up breaks that mutual exclusive mold, defying expectations. It is both a working cattle ranch and a Two Michelin Key resort (and the No. 8 resort across the planet, per last year’s Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards). It is at once expansive in size and intimate in service. It is as welcoming for city slickers as it is for genuine cowpokes. It is absolutely brimming with brag-worthy aspects yet delightfully devoid of any pompous pretension.
The most impressive balancing act at Paws Up is unquestionably the resort’s ability to cater to both the family-friendly set and the adults-only set. We opted for the latter, which takes sensational shape as the Green O. Hidden within the woods are 12 design-driven “hauses,” as they’re dubbed, that feel secluded yet are just a short stroll from the exclusive Social Haus. That’s where renowned husband-and-wife duo Bret Edlund (culinary director) and Krystle Swenson (James Beard Award–nominated pastry chef) serve up multi-course meals with a unique menu every evening — a foodie fete to be sure.
Elevated more than 20 feet above the forest floor, our tree haus delivered on a lingering childhood dream while also exceeding all of our adult expectations. Other guest accommodations are equally appealing, from tricked-out glamping tents (the regal version of “roughing it,” replete with butler and chef service) to historic lodges that have sat on this property for more than a century. The culinary program, meanwhile, is rounded out by a handful of inventive options with playful thematic names like Trough, Tank and Shed.
The main aims of a stay here — action and relaxation — exist in perfect harmony, like yin and yang. Mornings out on the trail on horseback are complemented by Swedish massages to soothe any soreness from time spent in the saddle. That’s obviously how I chose to spend my free time at Paws Up, but there’s also an enticingly long list of year-round activities to keep adventure lovers occupied, from fly-fishing to cross-country skiing to clay shooting.
But the ultimate luxury at Paws Up has nothing to do with opulent offerings and everything to do with the peace of mind that comes from breaking free of the expectations of the everyday and reconnecting with the rhythms of nature. I’ll admit it took me a few days to fully embrace the slower pace of life that beckons you — but eventually I got there.
It was on day three during an afternoon cattle drive moving cows down to the Blackfoot River that I finally felt my breath deepen, my heartbeat slow down and my jaw soften. It harked back to my earliest equestrian days, when I was overcome with awe over the horseback riding experience itself. My assigned equine partner, a handy bay mare named Whiskey, no doubt helped facilitate that nervous system regulation throughout my stay.
Of course, the picturesque setting certainly had something to do with it, too. It’s hard not to become totally mesmerized by the landscape, whether at dawn or dusk or high noon. It looks like the inspiration behind a 19th-century watercolor painting, with the resident cattle and bison herds dotting the golden-hued scenery, set against a backdrop of snow-topped mountains and seemingly endless blue skies. One day, Mother Nature even served up a can’t-look-away rainbow just to prove she could.
It’s no wonder, then, that Paws Up is a favorite among celebrities like Leonardo DiCaprio and Gwyneth Paltrow, who come here for a restful respite to escape the demands of the world. Sure, the property features all the typical lavish trappings of a five-star hotel in a decidedly Montana manner, but it also offers something that even the most sumptuous stays can’t: time. Time to catch your breath. Time to nurture yourself. Time to reconnect with ourselves, each other and the world around us.
That, as it turns out, is the greatest gift of all, and it’s a gift that’s given time and again at Paws Up. Its slogan — the Last Best Place on Earth — couldn’t be more spot-on. My stay here showed me that luxurious and rustic lifestyles are far from mutually exclusive. Done right, they’re one and the same.
