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Photography provided by Jester Concepts

Gourmets have waited for years for fine dining to make its return to the Twin Cities. The food scene took a major hit in 2015, when Tim McKee’s La Belle Vie shuttered, and again a year later, when Lenny Russo closed his Heartland. It was enough to make us wonder: Is fine dining in the Twin Cities dead?

At long last, we have an answer to that inquiry — a decisive no — with the much-anticipated opening of P.S. Steak this week in the former La Belle Vie space at 510 Groveland. It’s a homecoming of sorts for not just regulars but also chef Mike DeCamp, who spent a decade at the acclaimed eatery. He aims to continue the La Belle Vie story with his own chapter. And it’s bound to be a good one, what with Jester Concepts (Borough/Parlour, Constantine, Monello) behind the project.

Dinner on opening night proved that DeCamp and his team have what it takes to recreate the magic. First, a note on the iconic space: Design aficionados will be delighted to know the understated elegance remains but with a moody makeover. The biggest transformation is in the main dining room, where a second bar has been added. It certainly doesn’t feel new, though, nor does it feel redundant with the beloved lounge.

On to what you’re really here for: the lowdown on the food. Let’s begin with a few adjectives: delectable, flavorful, perfectly sharable. DeCamp succeeds in modernizing clubby steakhouse cuisine with bright notes and unexpected flavors that please the palate without leaving you feeling like you need to loosen your belt. The steak tartare, for example, takes on a Korean twist with the addition of Ssamjang aioli, while the crab and avocado toast beautifully balances freshness with richness. If you want to get your soup and salad on, the caramelized onion former and the chopped latter are sure to satisfy.

Shall we talk steaks? Carnivores should plan to fast leading up to their meal to make room for the bone-in tenderloin, the dry-aged ribeye or the unexpected crowd pleaser, the Denver steak. Accoutrements abound, from curry béarnaise (just trust us here) to crispy oysters to foie gras torchon. There’s no shortage of sides, either; topping our list is the smoked cream kale and the stick-to-your-ribs aligot. Other entrées of note? The whole-stuffed pheasant, the sautéed chicken breast (yes, really) and the pork schnitzel. The menu will rotate seasonally, though, so we recommend getting in while the getting’s good.

With P.S. Steak, Jester Concepts has built a modern-day bastion of fine dining, and it certainly appears that foodies will come.

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