Ahead of every scheduled fashion season, there’s always an onslaught of press perpetuating the myth that New York Fashion Week is dead. For the fall/winter 2020 season, the runway presentation platform skipped the predicted funeral march and instead triumphantly emerged as a visual forum that inspires, story tells and, above all, supports the creative forces at the helm of the next wave of fashion. From Tom Ford to Eckhaus Latta, these five design houses continue to redefine NYFW, infusing the tradition with fresh visionary talent.
Photography provided by Runway Manhattan/Mondadori
Tom Ford
Although not technically presented in New York City, Tom Ford kicked off the stateside catwalk season with a collection stitched to fit and flaunt the sex appeal of next-generation Hollywood. He plucked specific pieces from the glamorous eras of yesteryear to craft tailored looks that feel effortless yet remain unabashedly revealing. Whether it’s a glove-fitting lace dress or an oversize feather earring, this collection is destined to become the belle of the ball during next year’s red carpet season.
Proenza Schouler
The workplace dress code is about to get a major update thanks to Proenza Schouler’s epic fall showing. Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez looked to classic preppy staples as the base of their collection, including oversize wool coats, knit sweater dresses and gleaming evening wear. A standout moment of the show was when supermodel Doutzen Kroes stormed the runway in a mustard double-breasted jacket followed by her reigning predecessor Gigi Hadid in a fiery red ensemble. If you see a colleague wearing this collection next season, here’s a gentle reminder that she’s not bossy; she’s a boss.
Eckhaus Latta
In New York City, status is everything, and for designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta, their singular creative vision has cemented their brand as a household name in the world of fashion. For fall, the duo presented a collection in partnership with the RealReal, pairing their designs with an array of footwear from the online luxury consignment authority. Each look embraces the sentiment that less is more, showcasing the craftsmanship and hidden innovation of each minimal garment — a rare talent that is pioneering the future of ready-to-wear fashion.
Brandon Maxwell
In 2016, Brandon Maxwell requested to showcase his debut fall collection at the Museum of Natural History and was denied admittance. Fast-forward to this season for a full-circle moment as the designer took over the New York City institution with a runway show that can only be described as elegance personified. Known for sewing his heart on the sleeves of every garment he creates, Maxwell was inspired by the women who will ultimately wear these looks and the empowerment they will feel whilst donning them.
Marc Jacobs
Inarguably the heart and soul of New York fashion, Marc Jacobs closed out the week with a showstopping presentation filled to the brim with nostalgically iconic references and surprises upon every muse’s entrance. Presented as more of a performance than traditional runway, the collection found its roots in the spirit of the Big Apple and the metaphorical movements and trending waves that have made it the greatest city in the world. Crafting chaos into a beautiful rainbow of timeless creations, Jacobs continues to prove that limits do not exist when one so passionately believes in the power and the future of their craft.
