In the large scope of men’s fashion, luxury menswear has historically aligned itself with the tailored rules that govern how a man is expected to present himself. But in recent years, that heritage has been hijacked by a new era of designers whose garments proudly orient themselves into realms like accessibility, youthfulness, gender neutrality and, ultimately, fashion with a capital F.
Visionaries like Virgil Abloh, Kim Jones and Anthony Vaccarello fearlessly push their craft ahead of the curve, manifesting their complex creations in entirely otherworldly environs that can only be conceived by unapologetically dreaming. Consider, for example, models parading down a neon-pink catwalk in the middle of a vast Provençal lavender field in celebration of Jacquemus’s 10th anniversary as a fashion house.
With that in mind, here are 6 top trends that emerged from the spring/summer 2020 menswear shows across London, Milan and Paris. Expect them to be hitting a street near you and shaking up the status quo one strut at a time.
Often associated with highbrow romanticism, satin has officially emerged in the world of menswear, revealing itself at full blast in Paris. Dunhill rising star Mark Weston channeled handsome elegance in the gleaming fabric, while Balmain prodigy Olivier Rousteing jolted us into the shining future, sending saturated colors and flowing silhouettes soaring down the runway. Far from feminine, satin can be dressed up, down or any which way a man sees fit.
No longer Louis Vuitton’s new kid on the block, visionary Virgil Abloh continues his menswear narrative with a collection that is very self-aware in all the right ways. A creative whose genius enhances everything he touches, the designer shone a huge spotlight on the pocket, which appeared in a variety of shapes, sizes and numbers on both jackets and trousers. Looks like the man on the go will be ready to conquer any challenge he faces.
In his third year as creative director of legendary fashion house Yves Saint Laurent, designer Anthony Vaccarello elevated his signature rock-star regalia with delicately embroidered tops, letting what lie beneath act as an accessory. Luxury menswear icon Kim Jones flexed his unmatched attention to detail for Dior, adorning fresh, fit blouses with intricate accents. The trend no one saw coming, sheer will most certainly find itself styled on leading men come red carpet season.
An open-toe-only footwear policy will be going into full effect next spring, with luxury sandals found on the feet of every modern man. Stomping down nearly every runway, the classic staple took on all manner of silhouettes, boasting laces, straps and buckles galore. The most approachable designs were found on the Hermès and Loewe catwalks, with a focus on functions where a sandal would actually be found, like on holiday in Greece.
The classic daily uniform is finally getting the update it deserves, with a youthful edge and a universal flair. As seen on the Dior runway, Kim Jones’s take on this trend showcased a man of leisure simply going about his day. And on the Prada catwalk, the renaissance took a more utilitarian approach, with sleekly tailored looks that felt simultaneously timeless and forward-thinking. Getting dressed just got that much easier.
The queen of sex appeal, Donatella Versace continued her brother’s legacy with a menswear collection chock-full of archival prints, leopard patterns and plenty of skin. Offering up its own take on the beach bum vibe, rising Milano brand MSGM paired simple white tanks with ombre animal-print trousers accessorized with classic bandanas. These looks are primed for some fun in the sun during a long Miami weekend.