On the windward side of Taveuni — Fiji’s “Garden Isle,” known for its lush, waterfall-laced jungles — an aqua-blue shack rises unexpectedly out of the calm, clear water of Wailoa Lagoon. The structure’s modesty belies the treasure stowed inside: precious Fijian pearls. This remote, otherworldly destination serves as both a working farm and a showroom for Civa Fiji Pearls, producers of these organic gems, each more stunning than the last.
In Fiji, a country celebrated for adrenaline-fueled surfing on barreling waves and mouth-numbing kava ceremonies, everything — somehow — turns into an adventure. So it makes sense that travelers in search of pearls wouldn’t simply purchase jewelry in their hotel’s boutique when they can get in on the action, instead choosing to discover firsthand how these “teardrops of the moon” are cultivated and then indulging in an oyster tasting after a day at sea.
Photography provided by Civa Fiji Pearls
That’s why I’ve boated over to Civa from Matangi, a neighboring private island resort, my scuba gear in tow. Claude Michel Prevost, Civa’s director, and I suit up and check our pressure gauges before slipping beneath the surface. We swim over to the longlines, which are left in place for 12 months. This is where the oysters are initially gathered — and plucked like fruit off an algae-covered tree — before they’re placed in cages and nursed until they reach an impressive size of 5.9 inches.
As Prevost works, we attract the curiosity of his “guard dogs,” a small school of scalloped hammerhead sharks, which are considered critically endangered. Shy animals, they’re wary of our presence, and when we swivel our heads away from the lines to watch them, they dash away. Soon a pair of spotted eagle rays and a barracuda, all so large they rival the sharks, join us down below.
Photography provided by Civa Fiji Pearls
While Japanese pearls are traditionally pure white, those from Fiji are prized by connoisseurs for their array of brilliant colors, from pistachio green and peacock blue to champagne and copper. They embody the painterly shades of the nation’s famous soft corals and mesmerizing tropical fish — a fitting tribute to the magical underwater universe in which they were born. They’re also among the world’s rarest pearls due to the scarcity of their black-lip oyster host, with harvests limited to around 25,000 per year. Civa is one of only two producers in the entire country.
We reluctantly return to the surface, clambering from our tiny boat up to Civa’s workplace and showroom. Prying open an oyster, Prevost demonstrates how his expert Japanese technicians embed a small bead between the shell and mantle (the soft outer wall) and can push for special colors. After 15 to 18 months, the bead will be covered in precious mother-of-pearl. This, in short, is how a cultured pearl is made. When the procedure is performed carefully, the oyster isn’t harmed and can produce three or four pearls within its lifespan, one at a time. It’s a painstaking process reserved for those with patience and skill.
Photography provided by J. Hunter Pearls Fiji
Some of the pearls’ beauty comes from nature itself. While Fijian pearls use a similar type of oyster as Tahitian pearls, the color spread is vast. “There is a slight genetic variation between the Fijian oyster and the Tahitian oyster, and the underwater environment is completely different,” says Prevost. “The oyster’s diet has a great impact on the colors. We farm very close to high volcanic islands, so the dissolved mineral content in the water is different from what you would find in Tahiti.”
For this reason, both Prevost and Justin Hunter, founder of Savusavu’s J. Hunter Pearls, Fiji’s other pearl producer, passionately believe that pearl farming should remain sustainable to benefit the entire community. A thriving ocean produces healthier oysters and, in turn, more valuable gems. Without good environmental stewardship, the system crumbles. In 2008, Civa signed an agreement with the fishing rights owners of the Wainikeli-Bouma District to secure water rights for the production of pearls. As part of the terms, Civa was charged with creating a protected marine park in and around its farm for generations to come. Guests taking the farm tour can now snorkel there, among rare species like guitar sharks, humphead wrasse and giant clams.
Photography provided by Assael and J. Hunter Pearls Fiji
“I feel very strongly that pearls are the gem of the future,” says Hunter. “Pearling combines two goals, environmental and economic, that are inherently merged and can thus play a role in developing a circular blue economy.”
Before I leave, Prevost shows me what many travelers are most excited to see: the showroom. The colors of the gems on display are rich yet subtle. A fantastical string of iridescent gold, cranberry, silver-pink, blue and bronze pearls shimmers when I hold it up to my neck. I settle on a pair of greenish-gray earrings that are more within my budget. Everything else will soon be gone: Much of the production of this small farm sells out immediately following each harvest.
“I don’t pay attention to what is popular,” says Prevost. “I put all my effort into producing quality oysters. If I have good oysters, then the pearls will be fine. Clients always ask what is the best color to buy, and I invariably answer, ‘Follow your heart. Buy the color and shape you like, and wear it. This way, you will never be disappointed.’”
