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When men dress, we tend to adhere to enduring principles of proportion and custom. We’re lucky that way: What worked for Fred Astaire still looks great today. Women famously monitor the ups and downs of the hemline, but men can wear what their stylish father (and even grandfather) wore, safe in the knowledge that they still look good.
But we shouldn’t be too set in our ways. Even men’s style evolves subtly over time. For example, tailoring is softer and lighter now; pick up a vintage jacket and it can feel like a heavy blanket. While “trend” can be a dangerous word — what is in right now may be out in a season or two — there’s nothing wrong with taking a small sartorial step in a new direction from time to time. To that end, here are some of my favorite new menswear trends for your consideration.
Illustration by Hilbrand Bos
Minnesota Chic
Are you living in a style mecca without even knowing it? It’s quite possible. Embracing the rugged outdoor look is always a good idea. And living in the Land of 10,000 Lakes means you’ve earned it! What about a waxed-cotton Hudson jacket from Flint and Tinder? It just gets better with age. Or a subtle flannel shirt — no reason you can’t wear it with a tweed sport coat. If it’s the weekend, then some worn-in Red Wing boots — another great Minnesota tradition. A tartan scarf from Campbell’s of Beauly — yes, that’s made in Scotland, but the principle still applies. Lean into it!
Return of the Tie
Now, this is something I can get behind, since for me the tie never left. But after the casual disconnection of the last few years, people want to feel more pulled together. And not just for a business meeting but also for a special night on the town. I believe a knit tie is an under-appreciated (and very easy) addition to every man’s wardrobe. It’s textured, it’s tonal, it’s terrific. You may love your knit tie so much you’ll want to wear it with a practical chore coat, and you’d look great in that. I like textured ties in general — tweed, wool or anything woven. But if you’re going even more formal, then a striped repp tie remains a classic answer.
The Western Look
Embrace the wide-open spaces of Montana even if there’s not a horse in sight. Start with the Western shirt — usually denim or chambray, with its pearl snaps and distinctive pockets — which has now entered the mainstream. Double RL is a good place to start, and then you can go from there. These shirts are also being made in slightly dressier fabrics by tailors like J. Mueser in New York City and Drake’s in London. They style them with sport coats, and they look excellent. You don’t have to go that far (though I certainly do!). A simple Western shirt is a winning, durable look. Add jeans, depending on your commitment to the style, but corduroys with a jeans cut (Sid Mashburn has some great sports trousers) are a smart addition. Add some Chelsea boots with a wider toe (not too narrow) and you’re in the game.
Grandpa Style
This one is close to my heart, as I channel the spirit of the older gentleman for much of my style inspiration. He has a shawl-collared cardigan that he wears while reading the paper and drinking tea before taking his nap. What’s not to like? The key here is a strong devotion to a few beloved pieces. They can be a pair of loafers (suede Aldens are a good move), a dear cardigan or even some house slippers that you can wear outside your home if you like.
The Long Overcoat
An overcoat is a statement of intent. You walk into a restaurant and say, “Good evening. I am an adult who prefers a proper coat to a parka.” That sounds good to me, and a good overcoat is indeed a wonderful thing. For full effect, it should go down at least to your knees. This might be the time to dip your toe into the world of double-breasted jackets: Men are reluctant to wear them with suits, but an overcoat, with its military associations, is a good starting point. If you really want to step into the deep end, then you can have one made by a tailor; stop by Anderson & Sheppard the next time you’re in London. Otherwise, look for Italian companies that use great fabrics, like Brunello Cucinelli or Massimo Alba. Rubinacci, in Naples, Italy, also makes incredible coats. An overcoat is a simple thing that makes a strong impression — pretty soon you won’t leave home without it.
A Minnesotan turned New Yorker, David Coggins is the author of the New York Times bestseller Men and Style and writes a column for Artful Living.
