It’s 10 a.m. on a sunshine-dappled Friday in August, and I am riding shotgun on a golf cart tour of the legendary polo fields at Casa de Campo resort in the Dominican Republic. As Fernando Arata, a world-renowned polo player and the director of the resort’s Equestrian and Polo Center attempts to explain exactly what makes the fields here superior to virtually any others in the world — alchemy involving the perfect ratio of sunlight, water and dense paspalum Bermuda grass — his dog, a frisky seven-year-old collie mix, runs alongside us, jumping into and out of the cart, his tongue swinging in the breeze as the vehicle charges full speed across the polo fields without pause. “My dog, he has a good life,” says Arata, grinning widely as the happy pup hurls himself back onto the moving cart like a pole jumper.
Photography provided by Casa de Campo
Wheeling into the stable area, we pass chickens, donkeys and a pig so large I suspect it might be some kind of giant forest hog. “It’s just a pig,” Arata says casually like he’s referring to a house cat, not a creature that looks like it might mistake me for a mid-morning snack (I’m told the humongous pigs, like all the other farm animals, are incredibly gentle). As Arata screeches to a halt in front of the petting zoo, the whir of the golf cart is replaced by a chorus of bleating farm animals. In addition to the aforementioned animals, there are goats, ponies, rabbits, roosters, sheep and turtles, among other creatures. “My kids come here every single day,” he says, rubbing a friendly mule’s nose. “The donkeys are super cool. My kids ride them [like horses].”
Wearing well-worn jeans, an untucked denim shirt and dusty brown stable boots, his long curly black hair tucked rakishly into a camo-print baseball cap, Arata looks like he stepped straight off central casting for a biopic on Nacho Figueras. He opens the gates so the animals can roam freely as we talk. “The petting zoo is one of the most popular places in the whole resort,” he says. “We just had J. Lo here with her kids. We’ve had Boris Johnson, Clinton. Everyone loves the petting zoo.” As we get ready to continue our tour, he turns and whistles loudly. As if summoned by Noah, all the animals quickly scamper back inside the gate.
We drive around another building and soon find ourselves face-to-face with some of the most athletic-looking horses I have ever seen in my life. If there is an equine equivalent to Jeremy Allen White’s shirtless Calvin Klein campaign, these prize polo horses are it. Their sinewy haunch muscles look like they’ve been carved from Carrera marble. “These horses are super trained,” explains Arata. “We are right in the middle of the season so they are in peak condition.” We pass more horses — the center houses over 220 — that belong to a famous polo player who owns a villa. “See these horses right here?” he says, pointing to three more absurdly toned polo horses. “These belong to a famous Latin singer. He’s super cool. One day, he called me up and said, ‘Fernando, please come to my house. I need three horses because I want to ride with two girls.’”
“‘Okay,’ I said. ‘I give you some —’”
“‘No, no, no, Fernando. I want to buy my horses. You have six hours to find some horses for me.’So I bought the horses. He rode them that one time and never came again,” he says with a laugh.
Unlike the “super cool” but also apparently very busy pop star, most visitors to Casa de Campo return to the magical resort — which just celebrated its 50th anniversary last year — again and again. And while the petting zoo remains a highlight, this family-friendly activity is just one of the resort’s many world-class amenities. Here, a snapshot of what you can expect.
The Setting
Nestled on the southern east coast of the Dominican Republic and sprawling across 7,000 lush acres bordered by the Caribbean Sea, Casa de Campo is home to three award-winning golf courses, private beaches and the charming Altos de Chavón — a replica of a 16th-century Mediterranean village perched approximately 300 feet above the Chavón River.
Strolling along Altos de Chavón’s cobblestone streets feels like stepping back in time. Each stone has been hand-cut, each wrought iron detail of the handcrafted wooden doors forged by hand. On the morning I visited, I began my tour with a brief ride on a very agreeable donkey. Farther into town, you’ll find shops flush with gorgeous handmade linens (I bought some beautiful guest towels at Tienda Batey’s that remind me of my trip every time I dry my hands), boutiques selling locally-made clothing, jewelry, and a plethora of quaint workshops selling artisanal crafts like pottery, ceramics and weaving. There are art galleries, Mediterranean-style restaurants, museums, a church and a 5,000-seat amphitheater that has played host to legends from Sinatra to Santana.
Claim to Fame
Since opening in the mid-1970s, Casa de Campo has been a magnet for celebrities and other A-listers. In addition to Sinatra, Jennifer Lopez and A-Rod, Bill Clinton and Boris Johnson, the resort was a favorite haunt of fashion icon Oscar de la Renta (he helped design many of the interiors and owned a villa here for many years). Micheal Jordan and Derek Jeter both held bachelor parties at Casa de Campo. Jim Clark, founder of Netscape, hosted his 70th birthday party here (a swank affair attended by actress Naomi Watts and Sir Richard Branson). George W. Bush, Pharrell, the Kardashians, and Beyonce and Jay-Z have all been. Drake filmed his “Started from the Bottom” music video in one of the most lavish villas at the resort (Punta Minitas).
Vibe
At Casa de Campo, the laid-back energy of the Caribbean is suffused with a kind of understated glamour. The resort exudes effortless elegance; every detail is considered yet nothing feels forced. Golf carts hum softly along palm-lined pathways, guests sip guava mojitos poolside under the shade of swaying palms and the evenings pulse with the gentle hum of live music (unless of course, the resort is hosting an international superstar like Sting or Elton John, in which case the air literally vibrates).
Amenities
Designed by the renowned golf course architect Pete Dye, the resort’s three courses — including the iconic Teeth of the Dog — have garnered international acclaim. Named the number one course in the Caribbean, Teeth of the Dog features seven holes that hug the rugged coastline, offering breathtaking views that will take the sting out of even the worst shank. In addition to world-class golf and the aforementioned Equestrian and Polo Center (beyond traditional polo, the center also offers horseback trail riding and “donkey polo” for kids), the resort also boasts a Racquet Center with 13 courts (I took my first padel tennis lesson here and am now obsessed), a 245-acre Shooting Center, a full-service Marina and yacht club and three private beaches with water sports galore (I snorkeled among the colorful reefs in the crystal waters off Minitas Beach and saw a fascinating pageant of tropical fish including my favorite: the dazzling, electric-blue yellowtail damselfish).
The Rooms
Accommodations at Casa de Campo are as diverse as the resort itself, ranging from chic, family-friendly guest rooms to palatial villas. In the Premiere Club, where I stayed, the suites are vast and meticulously appointed with natural materials and luxe, minimalist furnishings. The suite comes with your own private golf cart that can take you wherever you want to go on the property. But with your private terrace, a giant Kohler soaking tub and a super cozy king-size bed with 1000-thread count Egyptian linens, you may never want to leave your room. Meanwhile, the villas, complete with waterfront views, private pools, dedicated staff and, in at least one villa I visited, a fully soundproof disco club — are so lavish, it’s no wonder Drake chose to shoot a music video here.
Dining
With six signature restaurants, the resort’s dining options span the globe, from the refined Mediterranean flavors of La Caña by Il Circo to an array of fresh seafood at Minitas Beach Club (the linguine alle vongole was excellent). Nibble on paella as yachts sail by at La Casita at the Marina or go for a more rustic, candlelit vibe as you dive into pappardelle with mushrooms and truffle in the cave-like La Piazetta in Altos de Chavón. There is something for everyone here, and — attention, families — the accommodating staff at each restaurant will bend over backward to make sure even the pickiest eater leaves satisfied.
The Spa
The spa at Casa de Campo is the ne plus ultra of holistic wellness, drawing inspiration from the island’s natural beauty and Ayurvedic traditions. Treatments incorporate indigenous ingredients and practices, from detoxifying mud wraps to soothing massages infused with local botanicals. Yoga sessions on the beach and meditation classes add another layer of Zen. After an 80-minute Himalayan salt stone massage followed by a light lunch by the pool, I left feeling as though I had passed the afternoon inside some gloriously refreshing ionizer.
Cost
Feature image photography provided by Casa de Campo | Showcases Villa Palmeres, one of the property’s private villas
