Millicent Rogers was certainly not your typical 1940s socialite. The granddaughter of Standard Oil partner Henry Huttleston Rogers was married three times, then fell in love with actor Carey Grant, attracting the rapt attention of photographers and style magazines worldwide. As a fashion icon, she had a fearless personal style, mixing turquoise and diamonds, and Tyrolean hats with high fashion. And when she found a favorite type of blouse from the famed couturier Charles James, she ordered it in volume — some four dozen at a time.
Photography provided by Sotheby’s
“Millicent Rogers was the ultimate tastemaker. Her name was synonymous with wealth and a highly original, unconventional, avant-garde elegance that made her a true American fashion icon,” Sotheby’s Vice Chairman of Jewelry Frank Everett explains.
Her love of jewelry was legendary. Rogers collected bespoke bijoux from the most renowned houses, and she even designed her own pieces, creating necklaces with bold, gutsy combinations. When she moved to Taos, New Mexico, in the 1940s, she fell deeply in love with Native American jewelry, collecting some 1,000 pieces in her lifetime. Famously, she would pile her wrists with elaborate stacks of these silver and turquoise bracelets, creating highly curated looks that were entirely her own. “Millicent Rogers was the very definition of style transcending fashion and trends,” Everett asserts.
Over the years, most of her jewelry has been dispersed. But in December 2024, Sotheby’s in New York City pulled off a rare feat, selling two of Rogers’ personal pieces in its Magnificent Jewels auction — giving style lovers a rare glimpse into one of history’s greatest and most original jewelry collections.
Consigned directly from the Rogers family, up for sale was an exquisite pair of circa-1939 ear clips by French designer Suzanne Belperron, who was known for her pared-down aesthetic. The two ear clips feature delightfully opposing designs: one set with a pear-shaped ruby, accented by cabochon sapphires; the other set with a pear-shaped sapphire accented by cabochon rubies.
But the showstopper was a dazzling circa-1937 floral clip–brooch by René Boivin, a French jeweler popular during the art deco era. Fashioned in the form of two roses, one flower is set with old European and single-cut diamonds; the other features calibré-cut rubies. This lushly crafted, three-dimensional design is characteristic of Maison Boivin, which often drew inspiration from natural forms. “She was a patron of the finest European jewelers, particularly the house of Boivin — which at the time was entirely female, a fact that certainly did not escape her notice,” Everett points out.
Bijoux devotees from more than 35 countries took part in the glittery auction, hoping to own one of these special lots. Hundreds registered for the live sale which saw brisk bidding in the room, on the telephone, online and by absentee buyers. Amid strong interest, the two Rogers pieces exceeded expectations, soaring well above their early estimates. The ruby and sapphire ear clips realized $50,400, smashing the pre-sale predictions. And the coveted floral brooch from Boivin took in a staggering $456,000, three times higher than expected.
And so, a fresh chapter begins with the sale of these storied jewels, signaling a continued demand for pieces from the great style icons of the 20th century. For the new owners, these rare treasures offer a chance to buy into the enduring legacy of Millicent Rogers — one of America’s most original and captivating tastemakers. “Her love of different cultures and their traditional dress inspired her to make daring and unconventional fashion choices far ahead of her time,” Everett sums up. “Nearly 75 years after her passing, she continues to inspire the worlds of fashion, art and design.”
