Imagine opening your closet to some of the most dazzling dresses ever made, designed by the world’s top couturiers. That’s just a typical day for esteemed fashion collector Alixandra Fitzwilliam-Tate Baker, Baroness of Gray, who has devoted her life to seeking out the most swoon-worthy vintage haute couture, worn by some of the 20th century’s most stylish women.
Photography provided by Sotheby’s
“There are few fashion collections in the world that can make you gasp in sheer astonishment at the beauty before your eyes — and the Baroness’ collection does exactly that,” explains Lucy Bishop, former handbags and fashion specialist at Sotheby’s in New York City. “Stepping into her purpose-built ‘wardrobe vault’ is akin to stepping into a dream: Your eyes are met with rails of rustling taffetas, glistening jewel-toned silks and twinkling embellished tulles, with museum-worthy haute couture nestled amongst ready-to-wear masterpieces.”
To celebrate all that splendor, Sotheby’s put 100 garments from the collection up for sale this summer, giving the public a first peek into this extraordinary assortment. Fashionistas toured the New York City auction showrooms for a glimpse at these creations up close, including designs by couture visionaries like Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent.
The coveted garments of the aptly titled Art of Glamour auction were sold exclusively online during a two-week span. With style enthusiasts logging in from around the world, the assortment took in $289,000, and more than half the lots sold above their high estimate. All the presale pizazz online brought in a younger-than-expected crowd, with a third of the bidders under the age of 40. And many participants were first-time fashion bidders for the auction house, with more than 40% of the buyers new to Sotheby’s style-themed sales.
“The Baroness is a lifelong lover of fashion and first developed an interest in the art of dressmaking as a child, and as time passed, that interest developed into a passion,” says Bishop. “She recalls watching Audrey Hepburn on the silver screen and being mesmerized by her and the breathtakingly glamorous couture gowns that she wore.”
That passion led to one of the most prized pieces in the auction, a pink dress made for Hepburn by Hubert de Givenchy. The actress wore a version of the gown in a 1966 Vogue fashion spread, where the dress is described as “a loose, languorous Givenchy spiral of pale pink crêpe falling to an uneven hemline from a strapless top, tied on one side.”
In what might be considered a Hollywood ending, the gown did not sell. As it sometimes happens in the fast-paced, high-profile auction world, the right buyer simply didn’t come along. So, for now, Hepburn fans will have to be patient to see if this glorious gown will get a sequel.
So what were style lovers clamoring for? The standout seller was an iconic Christian Dior haute couture brocaded lamé coat from the autumn/winter 1970-1971 collection. With a wraparound style, the garment is trimmed in dramatic black fox fur. Amid brisk bidding, it sold for $27,900 — more than doubling its high estimate.
And for the most enviable party ensemble in the collection, an Yves Saint Laurent haute couture lesage embroidered ball gown, from autumn/winter 1974-1975 also topped the sale. With its apple-green moiré skirt and astonishing bodice filled with chenille flowers, the dress sold for $12,700, smashing early estimates.
“This is such a unique sale that truly celebrates the art of glamour,” Bishop says. “There is something for everyone, ranging from fun and affordable knockout gowns to museum-worthy haute couture. When I think of all the fabulous parties these pieces attended decades ago, it brings me great joy to share them with the public and to imagine all of the happy memories that will be created with their lucky new owners.”
