By Wendy Lubovich

Union Square Cafe, 101 E. 19th St., New York, 212-243-4020, unionsquarecafe.com

It’s been a New York icon for more than 30 years. So when it came time to reinvent the beloved Union Square Cafe, the mission was simple: find a way to bottle its DNA and re-launch the eatery just blocks away.

For starters, the scale has changed. At 10,000 square feet, the new place easily outsizes the original. There are multiple floors, two bars and a pair of private dining rooms. Still, the intimacy is intact at the new iteration, with its cherry-wood tables, green wainscoting and colorful art.

Opened by famed restaurateur Danny Meyer in 1985, the flagship establishment introduced the idea of seasonal dishes. The space was quirky, the staff energetic. It was a new kind of American eatery, drawing on influences from France, Italy and Northern California.

That spirit remains, and regular diners will see many familiar dishes, including the gnocchi, tuna burger and rich banana tart. Shining alongside the old standards are new offerings like braised lamb shank with salsa verde, and duck crostone with apples and chicories. And pay close attention to the breadbasket; the larger space allows for onsite baking, with loaves of tangy sourdough available for takeout.

Read this article as it appears in the magazine.

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